My 1927 bungalow home structured wiring project Page 2
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jbcg @ 19th Jul 10:23PM:
Re: My 1927 bungalow home structured wiring project

Really great topic--nicely documented and great project.

A few thoughts:

1) D rings are a better choice than the staples for cable, but another option is Velcro. You can buy pre-made Velcro "rip ties," but they are pretty expensive. An alternative is to buy a reel of two-sided 1" Velcro (hook one side, loop other). Cut a piece 8" long. Turn one end over on itself for about 1", and staple that to the joist (2 staples) with the remainder hanging down. Fold that up to the part you stapled to make a loop to hold the cable. Makes it much easier to add/change/remove cable in the future, and it's soft and wide enough to avoid kinking cable. If you get enough cable in a d-ring the weight of the cable can cause the lower cables to kink. I like to mount the Velcro loops a foot apart when I have a choice, although 16" is okay for joists.

2) I'd be very hesitant to run cable behind the backboard (although it looks really nice that way). Once you get enough cables running back there it gets to be a real pain to pull cables, and there's more of a chance it'll turn into a big tangle that you can't manage because you can't see or touch it. That'll damage cables and you may have cross-talk problems. I'd run the cable on the surface with d-rings. Use Velcro ties to bundle the cable.

3) To cut drywall and plaster it's a lot easier and less damage-prone to use either a Dremel tool or a RotoZip with a plaster/drywall cutting bit. On plaster I also like to use some blue painter's tape to delineate the cut--that helps the plaster hold together better, and it gives you a place to draw your line with a laundry marker (Sharpie), which makes it easier to see when cutting with a Dremel or RZ, which tend to raise a lot of dust. If you have a helper, when you make the cut have him/her hold a vacuum nozzle right where you're making the cut--really makes cleanup a lot easier.

4) If you're running a lot of cable for some distance thru the basement, you might consider making a cable tray to carry the cables. These "backbone" bundles tend to be very heavy and it's hard to support them even with Velcro without making them too heavy to support their own weight without kinking. A cable tray can be made out of steel 2x4 stud material, pop-riveted end-to-end. (Make sure the heads of the rivets are inside the tray. Looks a little weird from the outside, but protects cable from damage.)

5) Generally, drops (and terminations) should be more than a foot from any parallel 110v cable or outlet. If I have the space I'll run the drops a full stud bay away from any bay containing 110v. This means my terminations are usually about 19" from the nearest 110v outlet. Running both in the same stud bay is technically okay as long as you can separate the two by mounting 110 to one stud and LV cable to the other, but it can be hard to do that if you're pulling cable blind (and if you leave a loop of extra Cat6). After all the work you've gone to it would be a shame to introduce EMI (electromagnetic interference) in to the network from a nearby parallel 110v cable. You might not see a problem right away with Cat6, but if you're really interested in doing 10 gig/sec one day, you'll almost certainly see issues when you start using 10 gig/sec equipment.

Really great topic--looking forward to your future entries.

Joey
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technique @ 20th Jul 12:27PM:
Re: My 1927 bungalow home structured wiring project

said by jbcg :

Really great topic--nicely documented and great project.

A few thoughts:

2) I'd be very hesitant to run cable behind the backboard (although it looks really nice that way). Once you get enough cables running back there it gets to be a real pain to pull cables, and there's more of a chance it'll turn into a big tangle that you can't manage because you can't see or touch it. That'll damage cables and you may have cross-talk problems. I'd run the cable on the surface with d-rings. Use Velcro ties to bundle the cable.
Ya, I think I will probably run the next batch of cables in a different location, either on the side, or behind in between different furring strips, but ya, I don't want it to become a twisted mess back there :)

said by jbcg :

3) To cut drywall and plaster it's a lot easier and less damage-prone to use either a Dremel tool or a RotoZip with a plaster/drywall cutting bit. On plaster I also like to use some blue painter's tape to delineate the cut--that helps the plaster hold together better, and it gives you a place to draw your line with a laundry marker (Sharpie), which makes it easier to see when cutting with a Dremel or RZ, which tend to raise a lot of dust. If you have a helper, when you make the cut have him/her hold a vacuum nozzle right where you're making the cut--really makes cleanup a lot easier.
Great tips! Yes, I really should invest in a Dremel tool, the drilling + handsaw method I use is quite shabby... I've yet to try the taping the edges trick, but I certainly will for the next plaster wall I need to deal with...

said by jbcg :

5) Generally, drops (and terminations) should be more than a foot from any parallel 110v cable or outlet. If I have the space I'll run the drops a full stud bay away from any bay containing 110v. This means my terminations are usually about 19" from the nearest 110v outlet. Running both in the same stud bay is technically okay as long as you can separate the two by mounting 110 to one stud and LV cable to the other, but it can be hard to do that if you're pulling cable blind (and if you leave a loop of extra Cat6). After all the work you've gone to it would be a shame to introduce EMI (electromagnetic interference) in to the network from a nearby parallel 110v cable. You might not see a problem right away with Cat6, but if you're really interested in doing 10 gig/sec one day, you'll almost certainly see issues when you start using 10 gig/sec equipment.

Really great topic--looking forward to your future entries.

Joey
I realized this after I wired up my office, that the existing coax outlet I used was 6" away from the 110v outlet... But, so far no problems... I put the service loop as far away as possible from the 110v cable, and the way I see it, if when I move to 10gig/s I have problems, I will simply remove/disconnect the outlet that's right next to my office jack :) My office has like 10 power outlets, so I actually WANT to get rid of a few of them, it's a little excessive! lol...

Thanks again for all the tips... I am getting pretty close to finished, once the Panduit 2U cable management arrives tomorrow, I'll post a pic before finishing up the power cable runs... I am still on the fence about a UPS...
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technique @ 21st Jul 06:13PM:
Re: My 1927 bungalow home structured wiring project

OK, so I did a little bit more work, and installed the Panduit WMP1E... Although, the Panduit is not exactly how I envisioned (I was thinking more along the lines of NeatPatch) so I installed it backwards for now... Here's a picture of how things currently look (Please ignore the File Server PC that's hooked up to the switch, it's only there temporarily....)



Any advice/thoughts always appreciated...

Here are a few more pics:



Close-up of the top Rack



Close-up of the bottom Rack



The Panduit WMP1E came with some extra "hinges", don't really know how they are supposed to attach or what the point of them is since you an easily snap off the front cover...
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jeffmoss26 @ 21st Jul 09:30PM:
Re: My 1927 bungalow home structured wiring project

What's with the lone cable stapled to the backboard?
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technique @ 21st Jul 10:04PM:
Re: My 1927 bungalow home structured wiring project

said by jeffmoss26 :

What's with the lone cable stapled to the backboard?
That's the FIOS power cable... I have decided (at least for now unless there is a better idea) to run power cables on the surface like that to minimize interference with the cat6/RG6 cables...
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bbuchanan @ 21st Jul 10:46PM:
Re: My 1927 bungalow home structured wiring project

Great job on doing your structured wiring!

The only thing I would add for the readers is to mark (number, name, etc) your cables before you run and cut them off. This will help greatly later when you are trying to figure out which cable on the patch panel goes to which room.

If you've got a toner, it isn't that big of a deal, but most people at home won't have one!
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technique @ 23rd Jul 02:47PM:
Re: My 1927 bungalow home structured wiring project

said by bbuchanan :

Great job on doing your structured wiring!

The only thing I would add for the readers is to mark (number, name, etc) your cables before you run and cut them off. This will help greatly later when you are trying to figure out which cable on the patch panel goes to which room.

If you've got a toner, it isn't that big of a deal, but most people at home won't have one!
Yes, I did mark the cable ends before running them, however, I made a big "boo-boo"... Once I ran the cables, ran my service loops in the ceiling and behind the walls, and had everything nicely run, right before I went to terminate the cables on the patch panels, I cut off the excess slack (which was about 5-6 feet)... Unfortunately, I only marked the cables at the ends :D lol, so I had to test which cable was which (not a huge deal, but I felt sorta silly having labeled the cables only to cut the labels off at the very end of the install right before I needed them!
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bbuchanan @ 23rd Jul 03:31PM:
Re: My 1927 bungalow home structured wiring project

You aren't the first and definitely won't be the last.

I've only ever done it a couple of times at work before I learned my lesson. You always realize right after the snip and as the ends fall to the floor what you've done.
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anon @ 24th Jul 03:58PM:
Re: My 1927 bungalow home structured wiring project

Good job. More home and business owners like you and I will be out of business. :)
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anon @ 24th Jul 04:00PM:
Re: My 1927 bungalow home structured wiring project

Good job. More home and business owners like you and i will be out of business. :)
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anon @ 1st Aug 08:49AM:
Re: My 1927 bungalow home structured wiring project

Great job and great article.

Living in a 1931 cottage with only plaster walls has deterred me from doing any projects like this but, you have inspired me to give this a try.

I completely failed to consider beer as the answer :)

Thanks for posting
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JoeG4 @ 2nd Aug 06:37AM:
Re: My 1927 bungalow home structured wiring project

Nice project.. BUT

I'm a bit disturbed that your water heater is leaning a little AND isn't strapped down :O Those things are *#% heavy when full of water, be careful dude!
--
VGMasters my video game forum

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technique @ 4th Aug 09:08PM:
Re: My 1927 bungalow home structured wiring project

said by JmanJ35 :

Great job and great article.

Living in a 1931 cottage with only plaster walls has deterred me from doing any projects like this but, you have inspired me to give this a try.

I completely failed to consider beer as the answer :)

Thanks for posting
Glad that me and our mutual friend beer could be there to inspire :)
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technique @ 4th Aug 09:09PM:
Re: My 1927 bungalow home structured wiring project

said by JoeG4 :

Nice project.. BUT

I'm a bit disturbed that your water heater is leaning a little AND isn't strapped down :O Those things are *#% heavy when full of water, be careful dude!
Funny you mention the water heater, that is actually the OLD water heater that was replaced just a few days after I took those pictures :)

Here's a current pic of how it looks (complete with new water heater that is NOT leaning, lol)... All that remains is to tidy up a few temp wires:


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